Assembling a HRC-type zapper kit
A photostory by James E D Cline
BACKGROUND: On March 12, 2008, I assembled a "Positive offset zapper" kit, partly to see what it was like to do that, partly to see if a zapper made without lead in it was any different from the normal ones put together with lead solder joints, and partly to check out the exact form of "positive offset" circuit used by H R Clark in her latest experiments involving biological electrowellness research. Note that I have been building and experimenting with HRClark-derived "Zappers" for over a decade now. So this one was different in that it was (almost) solderless, made on a "breadboard" and utilized the exact circuit and components shown in Dr. Clark's latest book, and would be usable also in a food zappicator configuration for additional experiments in detoxifying some things in foods, per Clark's research findings. I have confirmed by my own experiments that this kind of device, properly applied, can indeed improve the quality of life and greatly reduce the cost of health care, having much potential for those folks who want to be healthy yet have little money. And likely this kind of device will be widely applied in the future when efficacy of health is more important than business profits, maximizing all people's functionality in a busy happily productive world. That is assuming, of course, that the powers-that-be at the time do want a busy happily productive world to exist. Anyway, the photos below with comments are intended to show what my experience was in doing this project.
Here is my assembly and test space, ready to go, and the little box containing the kit sitting and my desk.
Self-photo at the desk
Label on the kit's container box; also shows website through which the kit was purchased.
Here is the first page of instructions along with bags of parts that were in the little box.
It is pointed out that the little 8-pin integrated circuit chip has a very specific orientation, designated by a dot which is at upper left here and is always next to Pin # 1 on the chip. Each of the 8 pins on the chip connect inside the chip at very specific places and must connect properly to the parts outside the chip, parts to be connected via the breadboard and its parts in this assembly to be done now.
The "breadboard" plastic assembly with all the holes and contacts inside the holes and internal wiring between various rows of holes. The assembly instructions are on the right in this photo, showing the orientation of the breadboard and where the first bunch of parts are to be inserted into the breadboard's holes. Each hole on the breadboard has an coordinate labeled above and to side of the breadboard.
The integrated circuit chip, IC, is the most important item in the kit, and is the little black rectangle shown here both in the instructions and the physical part; note the important orientation designator round dot at one corner, designating where pin #1 is on the part.
Here the IC has its pins lined up with the specific holes on the "breadboard" ready to be gently pushed down into the socket holes
And here it has been pushed down into the socket hoes at the exact location defined in the instructions. All the other parts and wires will also have defined locations in which to to insert them, so as to connect to each other by the wiring down inside the breadboard.
Here the first assembly diagram has been completed on the physical assembly
The switch that will be used to turn the circuit on and off, I found needed to be soldered to its wires at the switch's contacts, as it was difficult to make a secure connection to the switch contacts merely by squeezing the wires onto the connectors. The comparable advise in HRClark's latest book also points out need to solder for reliable connection to the switch contacts.
A resistor ready for insertion into the breadboard socket pins, its wire lead length bent to size and cut to allow insertion to depth for good ccntact inside the breadboard. The resistors each have their resistance value encoded on them by a series of "color codes" or colored stripes painted around each resistor, each stripe having a position sequence and each color designating a number, such as the color "brown" designates the number "1" and red designates the number "2" and so forth. The instruction sheets tell this fully, as to what means what, all the way to white which designates the number "9"
Well, the standard "color code": fully is:
0 = black
1 = brown
2 = red
3 = orange
4 = yellow
5 = green
6 = blue
7 = violet
8 = gray
9 = white
And so the stripes on a resistor, starting on the end where stripe is closest to the end, if the colors are
Here is one of the two capacitors used in the kit, and its value is written on one side, "472", and if you want to know what that means, it means its value is 47 with two zeros part of a millionth of a millionth of the basic unit of capacitance called a "Farad" and sometimes is written 0.0047 uF
Close up photo showing the capacitors plugged into their respective locations on the breadboard socket connector holes
Backing off a bit this shows the workspace at this point, ready to attach the battery and see if it works
Here the battery is plugged in, the power switch turned on, and note the little LED lit on the breadboard, and my oscilloscope is showing the output waveform while there is no load on the output of the circuit.
Here is a close up of the waveform shown on the oscilloscope.
Another view of the scope, showing settings of the horizontal and vertical scales for the display, two volts per division vertically and 5 microseconds along the horizontal scale
Oscilloscope and circuit together in one photo while circuit is runing
To be useful, the circuit needs to do something besides entertain the assembly person. It is intended for two different kinds of activities; the "Zapper" activity involves applying its small voltage signal through a person from one point on body to another; the usual way is through grasping a pair of copper tubing electrodes which have been covered by soaking wet paper towel material. So the sections of 3/4" diameter copper pipe tubing are measured to be 4 " long
Here, the tubing is put into a vise to hold it easier while cutting to length using a hacksaw. The vise is not necessary, just makes it a bit easier and more precise cut to size.
Here the two sections of copper pipe are shown with the calipers used to measure them. I had also used a file to smooth the edges of the cut ends of the pipe sections
Here the two copper pipe handholds, which have been scrubbed first to remove traces of paint and filings and dirt, are placed on pieces of wet paper towel which will be used to prevent direct contact of the copper with the skin
Wet towels on handholds and connected to circuit output, circut turned on as shown on oscilloscope, but not connected to the hands yet; note waveform on oscilloscope screen is still nicely swuare edges
I put my hand across the electrodes, partly shorting them out through conductivity across my hand, and see how the waveform changed on the oscilloscope; this is much more severe load than from hand to hand, however, which is the normal usage
Closeup of that heavily loaded circuit output waveform
Lifting my hand, the output returns to its no-load square waveform
I use my 12-button timer set for seven minutes to time the first of three "zaps"
Here is the output waveform when the circuit is loaded normally, one pipe electrode in each hand and the current going through my arms as the load on the circuit. No sensation can be felt, note, since the frequency is high, about 30 KHz.
Here is what the loaded waveform looks like when the handholds are put under each foot instead, current then going through legs. This shows that the feet have lower skin resistance that do the hands, since more current is flowing here than when between the hands in previous picture.
Next, preparing to use the circuit's other potential function, to drive a "Zappicator" which uses a specific kind of speaker as a unique kind of antenna, found by Dr. Clark via her genius and research to work.
The "north Pole speaker" supplied from the same company measures 2" around; this is not the critical measure, however.
One uses a compass to make the critical measure; here my compass sits on bench and is aimed toward magnetic north pole of the planet for reference
Here the "north pole speaker" face is brought to th side of the compass and the stronger magnetic field of the speaker pulls the needle of the compass toward itself, indicating the compass considers its magnetic field front polarity as the same as earth's north pole magnetic polarity. The zappicator is another of Hulda R. Clark's inventions, which she found helps decontaminate some things from produce, as another tool for dealing with today's accumulations of trace contaminants in our foodstuffs.
Here is the schematic I have drawn for the modified circuit, showing the added parallel pair of 270 K resistors to enable the 1 KHz zappicator configuration, and the added switch which shorts them out for use as a 30 KHz zapper.
Installing the zapper into a plastic food container, using sheets of easy-to-cut-and-shape balsa wood for partitions, thus providing a battery compartment, a platform for the breadboard oscillator circuit assembly, and a compartment for access to the two internal protected switches. The speaker used as an antenna is mounted on the bottom of the food container for use with the whole thing inverted from as shown.
Closeup of the breadboard assembly, showing additions to enable dual use as a 30KHz zapper and as a 1KHz zappicator.
Here is what the 1 KHz signal output looks like with no load on the handhold output
For comparison, on the same timescale, here is what the 30 KHz signal looks like with no load on the handhold output
Here is what the 1 KHz output looks like with a heavy load on the output, more load than would be in normal usage.
And same timescale and same excessive load on the output, here is what the 30 KHz signal looks like.
Copyright © 2008 James E. D. Cline. Permission granted to reproduce providing inclusion of a link back to this site and acknowledgment of the author and concept designer James E. D. Cline.